The sun dropping into the Pacific behind a bank of cloud, sky burning orange over the surf

Field Notes // 002

Costa Rica

The places I’d send you.

Field Notes // 002 Costa Rica · The practical half Companion to Field Notes 001

If you called me tomorrow and said, “I’m going to Costa Rica,” this is exactly where I’d tell you to go—and more importantly, why.

Before we begin

Costa Rica is one of those places that reminds you how beautifully diverse one country can be.

Cloud forests. Volcanoes. Rainforests. Rivers. Hot springs. Surf towns. Remote beaches.

Each region feels like its own little world.

This isn’t a complete guide to Costa Rica. It couldn’t be.

These are simply the places I experienced during my first visit—the places that made me pause, breathe a little deeper, and quietly think, “I’ll be back.”

If you’re planning your own adventure, I hope these places leave something with you, too.

A chestnut-mandibled toucan tipping its head back on a branch, seen from below through the canopy
Each region feels like its own little world.

Nothing on this page is a paid or affiliate link. These are just the places I’d actually send you.

Southern Pacific coast

Uvita & Dominical

If you’re looking for the Costa Rica that first stole my heart… start here.

Life moves differently along the southern Pacific coast. Scarlet macaws fly overhead. The jungle stretches all the way to the ocean. Evenings end with spectacular sunsets. And somehow, nobody seems to be in a hurry.

Getting there

Fly it. Sansa Airlines, San José to the coast.

The bit nobody tells you

If you take one piece of advice from this whole page, take this one. Sansa runs little hopper planes from San José down to the Pacific coast several times a day — it is less an airline than an air shuttle, and it is by far the easiest way to get to Uvita and Dominical.

It is also the most beautiful. Everything below you unfolds like a painting: the Pacific in impossible shades of turquoise, mountains stretching to the horizon, volcanoes rising through layer after layer of jungle in more shades of green than I knew existed.

Good to know: the planes are small. I don’t love small planes, and there was a moment where I closed my eyes, took a breath, and chose trust. Book it anyway. Then rent the car for La Fortuna instead — that drive is worth doing on the ground.

flysansa.com

Stay here

Danyasa

Dominical

If you’re looking for a place that embodies connection, this is it. Located just a short walk from the beach, Danyasa has spent more than two decades creating a retreat space where yoga, movement, creativity, and community naturally come together. The eco-friendly accommodations, built from repurposed shipping containers, blend beautifully into the surrounding landscape.

It’s also where I’ll be returning with our Happily Ever Yoga community, and after spending time there, I couldn’t imagine a better place to introduce people to Costa Rica.

Perfect for: yoga retreats · solo travelers · couples · walkable adventures

danyasa.com

Bare feet up on the balcony rail at Pagoda del Loto Azul, a book in hand, rainforest and the Pacific beyond

Pagoda del Loto Azul

Escaleras Mountain

If your soul needs stillness, book a few nights here. Perched high above the coastline, Pagoda del Loto Azul offers sweeping Pacific Ocean views surrounded by rainforest. It’s peaceful, secluded, and feels worlds away from everyday life.

One afternoon, the owner took us on a private waterfall hike through the jungle—one of those experiences that reminded me why I love traveling slowly.

Good to know: you’ll definitely want transportation while staying here, as it’s tucked into the mountains.

pagodadellotoazul.com

Adventures worth every step

Nauyaca Waterfalls dropping into a wide green pool, swimmers in the shallows below

Nauyaca Waterfalls

Dominical

If I could relive one adventure tomorrow, this would be it. The trail winds through lush rainforest alive with butterflies, monkeys, and even tiny poison dart frogs before revealing one of the most breathtaking waterfalls I’ve ever seen.

Yes, I jumped from the rocks into the cool water below. And yes, I’d do it again in a heartbeat.

Good to know: if hiking isn’t your thing, don’t worry. Shuttle trucks can take visitors most of the way, making the falls accessible for nearly everyone.

nauyacawaterfall.com

Marino Ballena National Park

Whale Tail Beach

This may be the most beautiful beach I’ve ever experienced. At low tide, a natural sandbar stretches into the Pacific in the unmistakable shape of a whale’s tail. Palm trees line both sides. The ocean surrounds you.

We happened to arrive during high tide, which turned out to be its own kind of magic. Standing on the narrow strip of sand, waves rolled toward us from opposite directions, meeting at our feet. My friends and I laughed like little kids every time they crashed together.

Sometimes the best moments aren’t the ones you plan. They’re the ones you simply stay present long enough to enjoy.

sinac.go.cr — Parque Nacional Marino Ballena

Four friends arm in arm at the bow of the boat, looking out over the Sierpe River

Sierpe River Explorer

My favorite wildlife experience

This wasn’t just another excursion. It became one of my favorite memories from the entire trip.

The Sierpe River winds through one of Costa Rica’s most biologically rich ecosystems, and rather than rushing from sight to sight, our guide allowed the jungle to slowly reveal itself. Monkeys carrying babies. Perfectly camouflaged nightjars. Herons gliding across the water. Sleeping snakes tucked into the branches. And finally, scarlet macaws.

Before we ever saw them up close, our guide quietly handed me a scarlet macaw feather. He had noticed how excited I was. That simple act of kindness moved me to tears. Later, as we returned to the dock, five scarlet macaws landed in a nearby tree, almost as if Costa Rica had saved one last surprise for the very end.

Don’t skip this one if you love wildlife. The long version is in Field Notes 001.

sierpexplorer.com

Where I’d eat again

La Parcela

Dominical

Come for the food. Stay because monkeys might casually wander through the trees while you’re eating dinner. The open-air setting overlooks the Pacific, making it one of those places where you end up lingering long after your meal is over.

laparcelacr.com

Fuego Brew Co.

Dominical

A brewery and restaurant right where the Río Barú meets the Pacific. Dominical runs on surf and slow evenings, and this is built for the second half of that — go for a long dinner rather than a quick stop.

fuegobrew.com

La Fortuna

Beneath Arenal Volcano

If Dominical teaches you how to slow down, La Fortuna reminds you how alive adventure can make you feel.

Nestled beneath Arenal Volcano, this lively mountain town is full of cafés, restaurants, boutique shops, adventure companies, and some of the best hot springs in the country.

Yes, it rained every single day we were there. I’d go back tomorrow.

Tasha and a friend with iced coffees under the Sloffee sign, in front of a wall covered in visitors’ signatures

Sloffee Coffee

Don’t miss

Hidden among the trees, Sloffee quickly became one of my favorite stops. What made it memorable wasn’t just the coffee. It was meeting the incredibly humble owner, whose excitement for sharing Costa Rican coffee was far greater than talking about himself.

That’s something I noticed over and over throughout Costa Rica. People genuinely love sharing what they create.

@sloffeecr

Orgánico Fortuna

One meal I still think about

Fresh. Local. Thoughtfully prepared. If you’re looking for a meal that reflects the slower pace of Costa Rica while celebrating local ingredients, this is a stop worth making.

organicofortuna.com

Maleku with Tasha and a friend on a suspension bridge through the rainforest canopy, spotting scope on his shoulder

Birdwatching with Maleku

Book this one

If you’re only booking one guided experience in La Fortuna, book this one.

Maleku doesn’t simply point out birds. He teaches you how to notice the forest. Growing up in the rainforest gave him a relationship with nature that can’t be learned from a field guide.

By the end of our morning together, I realized I wasn’t simply looking for birds anymore. I was paying attention differently.

Tasha laughing over a pan of empanadas at El Fogón de Chela, Costa Rican flags strung overhead

Chela’s cooking experience

Hospitality in its purest form

Learning to cook with Chela felt like being welcomed into someone’s home. She shared recipes passed down through generations while telling stories about her family, her farm, and the traditions that shaped her.

It wasn’t just a cooking class. It was something we brought home — we’re still making her empanadas by hand, weeks later.

Book here

Tasha in the chair at Arenal Tattoo House, smiling, while the artist works on her forearm

Arenal Tattoo House

Something more permanent than a souvenir

One of the most meaningful souvenirs I brought home from Costa Rica lives permanently on my skin. I came to Vision at Arenal Tattoo House with the story of the two birds from the Bhagavad Gita, my experience with the scarlet macaws, and a vision for how I wanted those pieces woven together. He somehow took everything in my head and turned it into art.

His work has a beautiful fine-line, illustrative realism style—delicate and detailed, but still incredibly lifelike—and I absolutely love what he created. He was also able to get us in that same week and took care of my friend’s tattoo as well. I already know I’ll be going back to him for more work when I return to La Fortuna.

Highly, highly recommend if you want to bring home something a little more permanent than a souvenir.

@morartist.ink

Two loungers in white robes on the spa terrace at The Springs, coffee and dessert on a small table between them

The Springs Resort

One splurge — with a caveat

This may surprise you… I wouldn’t actually stay here.

Not because it isn’t incredible. It absolutely is. The pools. The volcano views. The spa. The service. Everything is exceptional. But it’s so self-contained that you could easily spend several days there without ever really experiencing Costa Rica.

Instead, purchase a day pass. Spend the day soaking in the thermal pools. Book a spa treatment. (I still think about the volcanic mud body treatment.) Then head back into town.

That’s where Costa Rica comes alive.

thespringscostarica.com

If I returned tomorrow

I’d revisit every place above. But I’d also add two more.

Arenal Observatory Lodge

The birdwatchers all spoke so highly of it that it’s already on my list for next time. With incredible views of Arenal Volcano and access to miles of rainforest trails, it feels like the perfect place to continue exploring.

The cloud forest

Because somewhere beneath those misty trees, a resplendent quetzal is still waiting.

I have a feeling our paths will cross someday.

Practical notes

Rent the carRead

The drive from San José to La Fortuna was one of the most beautiful drives of the entire trip. Waterfalls. Mountain passes. Dense rainforest. Unexpected viewpoints.

Just make sure you purchase the full insurance coverage. Costa Rica is a fault-based country, and the peace of mind is well worth it.

Airport tipsRead

When arriving in San José, customs took us about 45 minutes. Have these ready:

  • Passport
  • Return flight confirmation
  • Address of where you’re staying
  • A general idea of your travel plans

If you’re visiting during peak season, allow additional time.

If you only have one day

On the southern Pacific coast, this is the day I’d give you.

Two friends sitting close on a yellow blanket on Dominical Beach, watching the sun drop into the Pacific
However the day starts, it should end here.
  • SunriseWhale Tail Beach
  • CoffeeSloffee
  • AdventureNauyaca Waterfalls
  • WildlifeSierpe River Explorer
  • DinnerLa Parcela
  • SunsetDominical Beach
  • Don’t forgetPut your phone away for a few minutes. Some of the best memories you’ll make aren’t meant for a screen.

Tasha’s backpack

I never measure a trip by what I bought. I measure it by what I carried home.

This trip came home with me as:

  • A scarlet macaw feather.
  • The words Pura Vida on my wrist.
  • Two scarlet macaws tattooed on my arm.
  • Friendships I’ll carry for years.
  • A quieter mind.
  • A deeper appreciation for presence.

Most of all, a reminder that travel isn’t about seeing more places. It’s about seeing yourself—and the world—with fresh eyes.

Final reflection

Every place has something to teach us if we’re willing to slow down and listen.

Costa Rica taught me that the most meaningful moments aren’t always the biggest adventures.

Sometimes they’re found in a conversation with a local. A feather handed to you without expectation. A roadside fruit stand. A sunset that leaves you speechless. Or the realization that the world has been inviting you to notice its beauty all along.

I hope these places become more than pins on a map for you. I hope they become stories you’ll carry home.